
The hardships of the COVID-19 lockdowns inadvertently gave rise to culinary innovations that continue to flourish years later. Confined to his Paris home, chef Walter Ishizuka grew disheartened by the mediocre offerings from convenience stores and delivery services. He began to contemplate how B-kyū gurume — inexpensive yet delicious casual Japanese fare — could be elevated to deliver an epicurean experience.
In 2022, his vision materialized with the opening of Yabai Sando, a "Paris Japanese sando house" in the affluent Odeon district. The establishment specializes in sandwiches made on pillowy, crustless shokupan bread, a Japanese milk bread known for its soft, fluffy crumb. Offerings include chicken katsu, tamago, tuna tataki, and wagyu katsu, each prepared with precision and attention to detail.
The sandwiches are complemented by fine-dining flourishes such as yuzu aioli, black sesame sauce, and ginger wasabi. These house-made sauces add depth and sophistication to the humble ingredients. Ishizuka drew inspiration from the B-kyū gurume tradition, which celebrates affordable yet delicious food. The venture has garnered a loyal following, proving that casual food can indeed be gourmet. It represents a successful marriage of Japanese tradition and Parisian elegance.