
Some of the world's costliest perfumes originate from a wounded tree. When Aquilaria trees are damaged, they produce a dark, fragrant resin called agarwood. This ingredient is so valuable that wild trees have been illegally felled, devastating natural populations.
Artificial intelligence is now being deployed to address this problem. Osmo, a Google Brain spin-off, has raised $130 million to develop AI that can predict and recreate smells. From a finger-sized piece of bark, the AI analyzed the chemical formula and reproduced the scent in a laboratory, eliminating the need to harvest the tree.
Nevertheless, critics argue that synthetic alternatives do not necessarily relieve pressure on endangered species. Natural perfumer Mandy Aftel insists that replicating a scent does not prevent consumers from seeking the original, nor does it address other threats such as deforestation. Conservationists warn that such approaches may amount to greenwashing.